Hump Ridge Track: A Coastal Great Walk That Earns Every View
- 3 days ago
- 5 min read
Hump Ridge Track is New Zealand’s newest Great Walk—and arguably its toughest. Spanning 62 km over three days, with close to 10,000 steps, it’s not a track to underestimate. The terrain itself is not especially technical, but the distance, relentless stairs, and long stretches of boardwalk steadily wear you down.
And yet—this is what makes it memorable.
Because at the end of each day, instead of a standard Great Walk hut, you arrive at one of the track’s well-appointed lodges. Comfortable, warm, and thoughtfully designed, they feel like a reward you truly earn.
Day 1: Rarakau to Okaka Lodge
The journey begins at Rarakau, where a backpackers lodge, coffee cart, car park, and long-drop toilets make for a relaxed start. A small donation is requested for parking, payable on-site.
Passing beneath the carved entrance arch, the track immediately sets the tone—wide, well-graded, and easy underfoot. The first few kilometres are gentle, with glimpses of the rugged south coast appearing through the trees.
Then come the “stairs of doom.”
On the way in, they feel almost insignificant—a steady descent through the bush, broken only by a well-placed seat at the top that seems oddly unnecessary. It’s only later you realise its true purpose.
At the base, the landscape opens. The wild coastline begins to reveal itself, and before long, you’re crossing your first swingbridge. A scattering of small baches sits tucked into the dunes, and from here, the route offers a choice.
At low tide, step onto the beach.
If the sand is firm and exposed, it’s worth it. The South Coast here is vast, raw, and endlessly dramatic. If the tide is high, the 4WD track inland is the safer option.
Rejoining the track, you cross Stony Creek, then climb toward Track Burn, officially entering Fiordland National Park. The bush closes in again, the trail narrowing as it winds toward Flat Creek, where a long drop marks a natural pause.
Soon after, a swingbridge crosses Pipi Tuaraki Stream, bringing you to the junction with the South Coast Track.
This is the halfway point.
And where the real work begins.
The next 10 km to Okaka Lodge introduces the defining character of the track—boardwalk and stairs. The path becomes rooty and muddy at first, before transitioning into long stretches of boardwalk that make for easy, if repetitive, walking.
At Water Bridge Shelter, take a break. There’s information about the forest and predator control efforts, a long drop, and your last reliable water source before the lodge. Lower the pot into the stream and fill up—you’ll need it.
Beyond here, the climb steepens.
The stairs come in every variation—narrow, wide, tall, shallow—making it difficult to find a rhythm. Progress is steady but demanding. Eventually, the forest parts at Stag Point, offering expansive views over Te Waewae Bay and down the coastline toward Invercargill. In the distance, you’ll catch your first glimpse of the lodge.
One final push brings you to the junction—left to Port Craig, right to the lodge. Despite what the sign says, it’s closer than you think.
Perched just below the ridge, Okaka Lodge is a welcome sight. Drop your pack, then, if you have the energy, head back up to complete the short summit loop. It’s worth it.
Day 2: Okaka Lodge to Port Craig
The day begins with a short climb back to the ridge before descending toward Port Craig.
The pattern continues—boardwalk and stairs, rising and falling as the track navigates a series of knobs and ridgelines. In the distance, Frog Rock stands out, and if you’re paying close attention, you might spot a small message etched into the boardwalk.
After around 2 km, Luncheon Rock provides an early but worthwhile break. There’s a water tank, a long drop, and shelter—everything you need to pause before the long descent.
From here, the stairs begin in earnest, dropping steadily toward the historic Edwin Burn Viaduct. As of early 2026, the viaduct itself is closed due to structural concerns, but an impressive swingbridge now spans the gorge.
Beyond this, the track follows the old tramway—flat, direct, and rich with history. Rusted nails and timber sleepers emerge from the ground, subtle reminders of the industrial past.
At Percy Burn Viaduct, another closure diverts the trail down into the burn and back up again to the private and locked Percy Burn Hut—a perfect lunch spot with water, picnic tables and long drop.
Continuing on, the final viaduct at Sand Hill remains open. Smaller and less imposing, it still offers a sense of what it must have been like to cross these structures before they were upgraded—when trampers crawled across them on hands and knees.
Soon, the bush gives way to a clearing. The Port Craig Schoolhouse stands here, now a DOC bookable hut, alongside remnants of the old cookhouse and bakery.
A short walk leads into the wider Port Craig settlement and lodge.
Take the time to explore. Wander through the sawmill remains and follow the trail down to Mussel Beach, where the broken remains of the old wharf stretch into the sea. It’s a place full of stories, quietly held in rust and timber.
Day 3: Port Craig to Rarakau
If the weather plays ball, start early.
The helipad near the lodge offers a perfect sunrise viewpoint, just moments from your bed.
From the schoolhouse, the track heads back toward Rarakau. The tramway is left behind, and the path returns to a wide, well-formed trail through dense coastal forest, with occasional glimpses of the ocean beyond.
Several side streams are crossed along the way, and at Camp Creek, another long drop provides a convenient stop.
Eventually, the track drops briefly onto Breakneck Beach before climbing a small headland and emerging onto Blowholes Beach.
At low tide, this section is a highlight—three sweeping bays separated by rocky headlands. While a rough high-tide route exists, it lacks the quality of the main track. If conditions allow, the beach is the better choice.
At the far end, the trail climbs back into the bush, reconnecting with the junction near Flat Creek.
From here, it’s a retracing of Day 1.
Past the familiar landmarks. Back over the streams. Along the coast once more.
And then—those stairs.
The “stairs of doom” return, this time as a true test. What felt easy on the way in now demands effort. The seat at the top is no longer curious—it’s essential.
From there, the final kilometres ease gently beneath your feet. The archway reappears, marking the end of the journey back at Rarakau.
The Hump Ridge Track is one of contrasts—coast and forest, history and wilderness, effort and reward.
It challenges you quietly, step by step.
And long after the stairs fade from your legs, it’s the feeling of the place that stays with you.
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