Molesworth Leatham Circuit

Molesworth Leatham Circuit – Closing Out 2023 on a High

The end of my 2023 tramping season concluded with a treat: four perfect days on the Molesworth Leatham Circuit, a remote and rugged loop that crosses impressive saddles, follows wild rivers, and offers cozy backcountry huts at night.

Day 1 – Into the Saxton

We had an early departure from Ashburton, heading for Hanmer Springs and then into Molesworth Station. Our destination for the day was a wild camp just below Saxton Saddle. Early starts mean long days on the track — and we had a lot of ground to cover.

We left the trailhead and followed the broad tussock valley of the Saxton River Valley along the farm 4WD track, eventually passing Saxton Hut. We didn’t stop since we knew we would be passing the hut again in a few days on our return to the cars.

Continuing up the valley, we left the 4WD track behind, passing the private Team Hut. We enjoyed our lunch while lounging in the tussock and soaking up the warmth of the summer sun. We climbed further up the valley toward Saxton Saddle, the track winding higher into the tussock as the sun rose overhead.

Below the saddle, we pitched our tents, relaxing in the tussock for the afternoon while contemplating our route for the next day.

Day 2 – Crossing into the Leatham

An early start rewarded us with a sunrise that set the tussock aglow. The first climb took us toward Saxton Saddle, with the track winding higher as the sun warmed the ridgelines. Cresting the saddle felt like stepping into a different world: golden basins rolled away into the distance, and the hush of early morning lingered in the air.

We dropped down into Gordon Stream, following the river as it curled through broad grassy flats. The air was cool, and the water was clear enough to see every stone beneath the surface. The first hut stop, Top Gordon Hut, felt well-earned.

Returning to Gordon Track, we sidled slips and gorges. The track had been rerouted in places and now followed the horse trail. We arrived at Bottom Gordon Hut and had a quick lunch; however, the sandflies were out in force, making it challenging to truly enjoy the beauty around us.

We continued up the Leatham River, with the trail winding alongside the cool, clear river. At times, we were enveloped in native bush, while at others, we passed through open flats. The contrast with yesterday’s broad tussock-filled valley was stark.

We finally crested a small tussock hill, with Top Leatham Hut coming into view. We ambled down to the clearing and settled into the hut to enjoy the late afternoon and evening.

Day 3 – Into the Severn

After an early start, we dropped down to the Leatham River and crossed to the true right. We followed the trail through the forest, crossing side streams and eventually climbing through pine trees and spaniard-covered slopes toward Severn Saddle.

Severn Saddle rose steeply ahead of us. The track was less a defined path and more of a route, with mountains crowding closely on either side. There’s something about crossing a high pass that feels like walking through a gateway—a threshold between one world and the next. The ascent was steep, with shingle sliding underfoot—two steps forward, one step back. As we reached the top, the wind hit, preventing us from lingering long.

On the far side, the Severn Valley felt wilder, the river cutting deeper into the land and the slopes dotted with matagouri. We made our way down from the saddle toward Severn Hut — the fifth for our trip. This valley was wider than the Saxton Valley, with clear streams leading us through tussock until the final climb to the hut. We spent the afternoon relaxing on the sun-drenched deck of the hut and swimming in the stream below.

Day 4 – Back to the Trailhead

By now, the rhythm of the trip had settled in: early to rise, steady kilometers, and huts at night. Our final high point was at Pt 1764, reached from a steep spur rising behind Severn Hut. The strong wind prevented us from lingering too long, but from the summit, the view seemed endless — ranges stacked one behind the other, stretching to the hazy blue of distant ridges.

The descent into Boundary Stream was steep but stunning, with the valley narrowing into a ribbon of green flanked by towering rock formations. We followed the stream, crossing through the cool, clear water at times. We passed the last of our six huts for the trip, Saxton Hut — a pause for lunch and an opportunity to reflect on the journey we had enjoyed.

When we reached the car, the trip tally stood at two saddles, three valleys, and six huts bagged — bringing my total to 221. However, numbers don’t really tell the whole story. What I will remember is the golden light on the Saxton, the sense of isolation in the Severn, the sweeping views from Pt 1764, and the quiet contentment of nights spent in the huts.

The Molesworth Leatham Circuit was the perfect way to close out my 2023 tramping year — four days that reminded me why I keep heading into the backcountry year after year.

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