The Old Ghost Road: 85km, 4 Days & 3 Nights from Lyell to Seddonville
The Old Ghost Road is an 85km journey through some of the most remote and spectacular landscapes on New Zealand’s South Island, following historic gold-mining routes, old roads and forgotten settlements between Lyell and Seddonville.
I hiked the Old Ghost Road over four days and three nights, staying at Lyell Saddle Hut, Stern Valley Hut and Specimen Point Hut. It was a fantastic combination of history, challenging terrain, alpine landscapes, river valleys and some seriously impressive huts.
The 85km distance is only part of the experience. Along the way are historic relics, information panels, quirky place names, spectacular viewpoints and plenty of opportunities to stop and take it all in.
Here’s how our four days unfolded.
Day 1: Lyell to Lyell Saddle Hut
Distance: Approximately 18km
Elevation gain: Approximately 841m
Our Time: 5 hours 15 minutes
Official time: 4–6 hours
Lyell was once a historic settlement on the Buller River, home to around 1,000 people.
Today, it marks the start or finish of the Old Ghost Road and has a DOC campground, shelter, long drops and car park.
We passed beneath the Old Ghost Road sign and crossed Lyell Creek before continuing along the Old Dray Road. This historic route once provided access for gold prospectors hoping to make their fortune.
The track starts as a wide, well-graded benched route, suitable for both walkers and mountain bikers. We crossed several side creeks, including Deep Creek and Irishmans Creek, before continuing through the remnants of the historic settlements of Gibbstown and Zalatown.
There are plenty of artefacts, signs and information boards along this section, so allow time to stop and read them. The history is such an important part of the Old Ghost Road, and taking the time to learn about the people and places that came before you makes the journey much more immersive.
At Eight Mile Creek, we dropped our packs and took the short detour up a five-metre bank to the now-derelict Eight Mile Hut.
From here, the track eventually levels out as it traverses the flanks of Mt Lyell before emerging at The Big Slips.
This section has an incredible history. The Old Dray Road once continued through here, but the Inangahua and Murchison earthquakes destroyed much of the route, sending sections of the old road slipping far below towards the valley floor.
Creating the Old Ghost Road meant blasting and chiselling through the hard rock to establish a new, usable route.
The result is spectacular. There’s a conveniently positioned seat at The Big Slips, making it an excellent place to stop for lunch and take in the views.
From here, the gradient eases and it’s a relatively straightforward journey towards Lyell Saddle. A sign points to the short two-minute side track to Lyell Saddle Hut.
Lyell Saddle Hut
The hut is extremely well equipped, with everything you need for a comfortable night — except food.
That means you can save some weight in your pack by leaving behind things like cooking equipment and extra hut essentials.
It’s worth heading behind the hut and past the bush shower, then climbing the steps to the helipad. Be careful if the steps are wet, as they can be very slippery, but the views from the top are worth the climb.
This was one of my favourite days on the Old Ghost Road. The combination of history, relics and changing scenery made it feel like we were walking through the area’s past rather than simply travelling from one hut to another.
Although it is a steady climb for most of the day, I never found it particularly tough or challenging. Knowing we had a guaranteed bunk waiting at Lyell Saddle Hut also meant there was no need to rush.
We had been lucky with recent rain, so accessing water along this section was easy. If conditions have been dry, make sure you carry enough water and check current DOC information before setting out.
The major side creeks are bridged, but some of the smaller ones are not.
Our weather was clear and calm, with periods of sunshine and occasional views whenever the track emerged from the bush. Much of this day is through forest, so make the most of every opening when the surrounding mountains and valleys appear.
Lyell Saddle Hut facilities
10 bunks — bookings required year-round
Gas cookers
Pots, pans, crockery and cutlery
Internal sink with tap water
Washing-up liquid, cloths and towels
Log burner with wood supplied (it can be wet, ensure you use responsibly)
Deck with outstanding views
Two long drops with toilet paper
Bush shower — heat your own water
Two summer sleepouts, Gibbs and Zala, sleeping four people on two double mats (must be booked, only available through summer seasons)
One tent platform (must be booked year round)
Day 2: Lyell Saddle Hut to Stern Valley Hut
Distance: Approximately 25km
Elevation gain: Approximately 481m
Elevation loss: Approximately 954m
Our Time: 7 hours 20 minutes
Official time: 6–9 hours
This was our wettest and coldest day on the Old Ghost Road. Overnight, snow fell at Ghost Lake Hut while we were tucked up at Stern Valley Hut.
The day is roughly divided into two sections:
Lyell Saddle Hut to Ghost Lake Hut: 12km, approximately 3 to 5 hours (our time 3.5 hours)
Ghost Lake Hut to Stern Valley Hut: 13km, approximately 3 to 5 hours (our time 3.5 hours)
Rain was forecast, with heavier falls and strong winds expected later in the day. This section also crosses exposed tops and includes the Skyline Ridge, so we were keen to make the most of the weather window.
When we left Lyell Saddle Hut, there was only a light drizzle. We rejoined the main track and headed back into the bush.
After about 6km, the track emerged from the forest and we reached the beginning of the exposed tops of the Lyell Range.
The drizzle had become heavier, the wind had picked up and it was blowing directly into our faces.
We knew there was a shelter just after leaving the bush, so we’d already decided that we’d stop there for a break, eat something and get out of the weather for a while.
It took us around two hours to reach Top Camp Shelter, but the break was worthwhile. It wasn’t particularly cold at that stage, and the shelter gave us some welcome protection.
I’m sure the views would be spectacular on a clear day, looking down into the valleys below.
Beyond the shelter, we continued along the range. More information panels told us about the history and landscape, while quirky names such as Heaven’s Door and The Tombstone provided some much-needed humour.
At one point, we decided it should really be called Hell’s Door — because at least then we might have been warm!
Around 1.5 hours later, we reached Ghost Lake Hut.
The long drops were the first indication that we’d arrived.
We took off our packs and wet jackets and settled in for an early lunch. The huts are equipped with kettles, gas cookers and mugs, so a hot drink was very welcome.
While we were inside, the rain became considerably heavier. We were very glad to be under cover.
Eventually, though, we had to put our wet jackets back on, shoulder our packs and head out again.
The track drops briefly through bush and boardwalk before reaching Ghost Lake. In the misty conditions, it genuinely looked ghost-like, with low cloud hovering above the water.
We crossed more boardwalk before climbing above the lake and then descending steeply through a series of zigzags into another section of bush.
Eventually, we emerged onto Skyline Ridge.
I had been imagining a narrow ridge with dramatic drop-offs on either side. With the rain and thick mist, it was difficult to tell exactly how high we were or how steep the surrounding terrain really was.
I’d also been anticipating the famous Skyline Steps. However, a new zigzag section had been constructed, and we walked onto it without even realising it. When we later passed the bottom of the old steps, we discovered they were closed and no longer part of the route.
Back into the bush, we continued descending — this time for considerably longer and more steeply — until we reached Stern Valley.
A sign and junction pointed us towards Stern Valley Hut, and after another 3.5 hours from Ghost Lake, we finally arrived.
The hut sits right beside the creek, with large windows overlooking the water.
As the afternoon went on, we watched the creek slowly rise as heavy rain continued to fall on the hut roof.
We were very happy to be inside, with the fire roaring and our wet gear drying.
Ghost Lake Hut facilities
18 bunks — bookings required year-round
Gas cookers
Pots, pans, crockery and cutlery
Internal sink with tap water
Washing-up liquid, cloths and towels
Log burner with wood supplied (wood is generally wet, fire can be hard to get going)
Covered deck
Two long drops with toilet paper
Bush shower — heat your own water
Two summer sleepouts sleeping four people on two double mats (must be booked, only available through summer seasons)
One tent platform (must be booked year round)
Stern Valley Hut facilities
10 bunks — bookings required year-round
Gas cookers
Pots, pans, crockery and cutlery
Internal sink with tap water
Washing-up liquid, cloths and towels
Log burner with wood supplied
Covered deck
Two long drops with toilet paper
Bush shower — heat your own water
Two summer sleepouts, Blue Duck and Whio, sleeping four people on two double mats (must be booked, only available through summer seasons)
One tent platform (must be booked year round)
Day 3: Stern Valley Hut to Specimen Point Hut
Distance: Approximately 25km
Elevation gain: Approximately 324m
Elevation loss: Approximately 589m
Our Time: 7 hours 45 minutes
Official time: 7–8 hours
This was another standout day.
The track and scenery were fantastic, and we took considerably longer than planned because there were so many opportunities to stop for photos, videos and the occasional side quest.
We left Stern Valley Hut on a well-graded, relatively flat section following Stern Creek towards Earnest Valley.
When we emerged from the bush, the clouds were lifting above the Matiri Range and surrounding mountains. We crossed Earnest Creek before reaching Lake Grimm, where the calm conditions created an almost perfect mirror reflection.
Further along, we passed Lake Cheerful before entering The Boneyard.
I’d expected The Boneyard to be dominated by boulders and exposed rock, almost like a lunar landscape. Instead, I was surprised by the amount of alpine vegetation scattered throughout the area.
We climbed and zigzagged towards Solemn Saddle, passing Union Point, where two of the diggers working on the construction of the trail met.
A viewpoint here provided fantastic views back towards Lake Grimm and down into Earnest Valley.
After crossing Solemn Saddle, we began descending towards Goat Creek.
The creek was raging below us, and we weren’t sure whether we’d even be able to cross it to reach Goat Creek Hut.
Along the way, we passed The Hanging Judge, a large rock seemingly hanging precariously from the hillside opposite.
We stopped for a snack in the sunshine and were joined by a friendly robin before continuing towards the creek.
At the junction for Goat Creek Hut, we decided to take the three-minute detour each way, even if it meant discovering that the creek was uncrossable.
Fortunately, luck was on our side.
We dropped our packs, waded through knee-deep water and made our way to the hut.
Goat Creek Hut is a small, basic four-bunk hut with plenty of history.
When we went looking for the long drop, we were amused to discover that a large tree had recently crashed onto it, completely crushing it beneath its weight.
Always check current DOC track and hut alerts before your trip, as conditions and facilities can change.
Back on the Old Ghost Road, we found a large fallen tree to sit on and stopped for lunch before continuing towards Mokihinui Forks Hut.
The hut sits directly beside the track overlooking the Mokihinui River. It’s a great location and another good-looking basic DOC hut.
After a short break and with our feet beginning to feel the effects of the previous two long days, we continued for the final 3km towards Specimen Point Hut.
Arriving at Specimen Point was a relief.
We settled in for a sunny afternoon. We’d heard stories about giant, ravenous sandflies, but the cooler temperatures kept them mostly at bay.
Instead, we were able to sit on the deck in the sunshine, looking across the Mokihinui River and into the gorge.
Goat Creek Hut
A basic DOC hut:
Four bunks - First come, first served - No bookings
Water from stream
Long drop
Open fire
Bench
No crockery or cutlery
Woodshed
At the time of our visit, the long drop had been crushed by a fallen tree. Check current DOC alerts before your trip.
Mokihinui Forks Hut
A basic DOC hut:
10 bunks - First come, first served - No bookings
Long drop
Log burner
Water tank
Woodshed
Bench
Some crockery and cutlery
Specimen Point Hut facilities
14 bunks — bookings required year-round
Gas cookers
Pots, pans, crockery and cutlery
Internal sink with tap water
Washing-up liquid, cloths and towels
Log burner with wood supplied
Covered deck
Two long drops with toilet paper
Bush shower — heat your own water
Two summer sleepouts, The Red Queen and Guiding Star, sleeping four people on two double mats (must be booked, only available through summer seasons)
One tent platform (must be booked year round)
Day 4: Specimen Point Hut to Rough & Tumble Bush Lodge
Distance: Approximately 17km
Elevation: Undulating
Our Time: 4 hours 45 minutes
Official time: 4–6 hours
Our final day on the Old Ghost Road was 17km, following the Mokihinui River through the gorge before exiting at Rough & Tumble Bush Lodge.
We left Specimen Point Hut under clear skies and warm temperatures.
When we crossed Specimen Creek, I heard the familiar call of a whio.
We stopped on the bridge and watched it feeding and climbing through the rapids for a good five minutes before continuing.
Then came the Suicide Slips.
I hadn’t really appreciated what was ahead of us and was genuinely surprised by the sheer size of the three bridges and the enormous drops they span.
With sheer rock cliffs on one side, there was simply no way to create a conventional track through this section.
My legs were feeling pretty shaky by the time I made it across all three bridges, and I was very happy to have that section behind me.
Eventually, the track widened and followed what was once the old road to Karamea.
Once again, the Inangahua and Murchison earthquakes destroyed sections of the original route, but remnants of the old road and bridges can still be seen.
Eventually, we reached a gate marking the end of the track.
It was a slightly bittersweet moment.
We crossed Welcome Creek, picked up a more recent 4WD road and followed it until a sign pointed us towards the final kilometre of the Old Ghost Road.
A conveniently positioned seat overlooking the Mokihinui River made the perfect place to stop for lunch before the final push to the trailhead.
And just like that, our Old Ghost Road adventure was over.
Rough & Tumble Bush Lodge trailhead
Shelter
Long drop with toilet paper
Car park
Rough & Tumble Bush Lodge
Lodge open October–April
Overall: Is the Old Ghost Road worth doing?
The Old Ghost Road ranks highly among the hikes I’ve done.
We chose to complete it over three nights and four days, which meant two long days of around 25km. Adding a fourth night would make for two much shorter days, so it’s really a matter of personal preference.
The number of nights doesn’t affect the overall track cost, so you can choose the itinerary that best suits your pace and what you want from the trip.
For me, one of the biggest highlights was the history.
The old gold-mining settlements, historic routes, relics, information panels and quirky place names give the trail a personality that goes far beyond simply walking from one hut to the next.
There are also plenty of viewpoints and places to stop, which helped break up the longer days.
And then there are the huts.
The purpose-built Old Ghost Road huts are exceptionally well equipped. Having gas cookers, cooking equipment, pots, pans, crockery, cutlery, sinks, washing-up supplies, fires and other facilities means you can significantly reduce the amount of gear you need to carry.
Each hut also has a book about the construction of the Old Ghost Road. If you have time, it’s well worth sitting down and reading it. It adds another layer to the experience and gives you a better appreciation of what went into creating the trail.
If you’re looking for a quieter experience, the shoulder seasons could be worth considering, when there are generally fewer mountain bikers and the huts may be less busy.
Because the Old Ghost Road is a point-to-point trail rather than a circuit, transport needs to be arranged at either end.
For our group, I used a vehicle relocation service, which worked out cheaper than a shuttle because there were originally four of us travelling. In the end, only two of us completed the trip, but the vehicle relocation was still a practical option.
There are also regular shuttle services operating year-round.
My biggest tips for the Old Ghost Road
Allow time to stop.
Don’t rush past the history, viewpoints, information panels and quirky landmarks. They’re a huge part of what makes this trail special.
Choose your itinerary carefully.
Three nights and four days gives you two long 25km days. Four nights creates a much more relaxed itinerary.
Don’t underestimate the weather.
The Old Ghost Road crosses exposed alpine terrain, so conditions can change quickly. Our second day went from light drizzle to heavy rain and strong winds, with snow falling overnight.
Carry enough water.
Some sections have plenty of water available, particularly after rain, but conditions can change. Check your water sources before setting out and don’t rely on every creek being flowing.
Take advantage of the huts.
The facilities are excellent and allow you to leave a surprising amount of cooking and camping equipment at home.
Check DOC updates.
Creeks, bridges, huts and sections of track can change, particularly after storms, slips or flooding. Always check the latest track and hut information before your trip.
Look up.
It’s easy to focus on your feet when you’re walking, but some of the best views appear suddenly when the track emerges from the bush.
And don’t forget the camera.
The Old Ghost Road isn’t just about the 85km.
It’s the history, the landscapes, the huts, the rivers, the mountains, the weather, the wildlife and all those little moments along the way that make it such a memorable adventure.
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