Leaning Lodge Hut – Rock and Pillar Range Overnight Hike

Leaning Lodge Hut

Perched high on the Rock and Pillar Range above Middlemarch, Leaning Lodge Hut is a true high-country gem. It’s a steep but rewarding climb through open tussock and alpine terrain to one of Otago’s most iconic backcountry huts — complete with its famous “loo with a view.”

Getting There

The track begins from the Kinvara Station car park, reached via a gravel road 9km out of Middlemarch. The access road can be rough in places, so care is needed, especially after rain.

I left the car park at 10:30am, with clear skies and a cool breeze — perfect conditions for a steady climb into the alpine.

The Climb Up

The route to the hut follows a 4WD track the entire way, climbing steeply and steadily through tussock-covered slopes. There’s no easing into this one — the gradient begins early and doesn’t let up until you reach the hut.

The old, derelict Botany Hut comes into view partway up, a reminder of the history of the Rock and Pillar Range and the botanists who once studied the area’s unique alpine flora.

Beyond Botany Hut, the track continues upward until reaching a junction in the 4WD track with no signage — this is where it’s easy to second-guess the direction. Take the left-hand track, and you’ll soon spot Leaning Lodge Hut, tucked into a tussock basin just 800 metres away.

Leaning Lodge Hut

Reaching Leaning Lodge Hut feels like stepping into another world — open, windswept, and surrounded by the vast expanse of the Rock and Pillar Range.

The hut must be booked in advance for all stays and offers:

• 10 bunks

• Mudroom

• Cooking bench

• Table and bench seating

• Water from a nearby stream

• Long drop toilet

And, of course, its “loo with a view” — a clear glass panel in the toilet door that looks out across the valley below. It’s one of those quirky backcountry touches that make this hut memorable.

The Hike

• Distance: 8 km one way

• Time: Around 2 hours 45 minutes to the hut

• Track type: 4WD track

• Elevation gain: Steady climb the entire way, 900 metres

• Navigation: Straightforward, but take care at the unsigned junction

Why It’s Worth It

While the route is short, it’s a consistent climb that earns every metre of elevation. The effort is well rewarded with stunning views and the feeling of being deep in the Otago high country.

Leaning Lodge Hut is the perfect spot for a quiet overnight stay — sheltered among tussocks with a sweeping view of the valley below. On clear nights, the stars stretch endlessly across the sky, and the silence of the range settles in completely.

This is one of those hikes that reminds you how special New Zealand’s backcountry huts are — simple, remote, and unforgettable.

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