Quail Island | Lyttleton Harbour

Sometimes the best way back into big adventures is to start small, with something that feels gentle but still has its own sense of discovery. Quail Island turned out to be exactly that.

A Winter Crossing

With surgery still fresh in my rear-view mirror, I wanted a trip that would stretch the legs without overdoing it. Helen and Derek joined me for a winter’s day out, and together we boarded the 10:15am ferry from Lyttelton. Apart from one other passenger, we had the boat to ourselves — a quiet crossing that made the harbour feel like it belonged just to us.

The crew had to wrestle a little with the low tide when docking, but soon enough we were stepping ashore on Otamahua / Quail Island, ready to walk its 5km loop track.

Walking Through Layers of History

Quail Island is more than just pretty views — it’s a living museum of Canterbury’s past. Our path took us beside Swimmers Beach, then to the old immigrant barracks where people were once quarantined before being allowed to enter New Zealand.

Further along was Skiers Beach, home to the replica leprosy hut. Each patient here had their own hut, living in isolation with books and gardens for company. A doctor visited monthly, and stories say a ship’s captain’s daughter once danced for the residents — a small kindness in a lonely life.

We paused by an excavated grave with no remains — likely claimed by erosion — and then reached the Ship’s Graveyard. With the tide so low, eight hulks lay exposed, rusting reminders of vessels deliberately scuttled here. Past an old quarry, once worked by prisoners to build Lyttelton’s walls and Ripapa Island’s fort, we climbed toward the island’s highest point at 86 metres, rewarded with harbour views.

Hut Bagging and Antarctic Dogs

For lunch we retreated to the deck of Ōtamahua Hut — number 36 in my hut-bagging year — basking in sunshine and shelter from the wind. Afterward, Helen and I wandered to the remains of the old dog kennels. Here, huskies destined for Scott and Shackleton’s Antarctic expeditions were once trained and quarantined — an unexpected link between this quiet island and heroic journeys of exploration.

Our walk back to the wharf took us past the old stables and the Akaroa Heads Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottage, now used by DOC staff. By mid-afternoon we were back on the jetty, ready to board the 3:30pm ferry and sail home.

A Gentle Return

Quail Island may be modest in height and scale, but it’s rich in history and atmosphere. For me, it was the perfect day trip — a chance to ease back into hiking after surgery, share the trail with friends, and add one more hut to the year’s tally. Sometimes recovery looks like taking things slowly… and sometimes it looks like sunshine on a hut deck, surrounded by harbour waters and good company.

Trip Notes

• Getting there: Quail Island (Ōtamahua) is reached by ferry from Lyttelton. We caught the 10:15am ferry over and returned on the 3:30pm ferry — plenty of time to walk the circuit track, explore historic sites, and enjoy lunch at the hut.

• Ferry operator: Black Cat Cruises runs services year-round (with more sailings in summer). Tickets can be booked online.

• Cost: Adults around $40 return, children about half that. And discount for Gold Card holders.

• Walking track: The loop track around the island is about 5km / 2 - 3 hours at a leisurely pace, plus extra time for exploring side paths and historic sites.

• Ōtamahua Hut: A small 12 bunk, standard DOC hut (bookings required for overnight stays). Perfect for a sunny lunch stop.

• Best time to go: Any season works, but in winter you may just have the island almost to yourself — like we did.

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