Rivers, Saddles, and Remote Huts: A West Coast Traverse
- Mar 18
- 6 min read
This demanding West Coast backcountry route, located near Lake Kaniere, forms an almost loop and typically takes five to six days, depending on fitness, weather, river levels, and how you choose to break up the stages. While it can be walked in either direction, I strongly recommend travelling from the Toaroha Valley through to the Styx River.
This is a tough, advanced tramping route that should not be underestimated. It requires excellent navigation skills, sound judgement, confidence in steep and exposed terrain, and experience with large river crossings. Good weather is essential, and low river levels are critical, particularly for the Kokatahi River, which remains deep even in normal flows.
Although this route is designated by DOC as “fully maintained”, trampers should not expect consistent markers or a clearly defined ground trail. Weather events frequently alter the track, markers can be sparse or damaged, and sections are often overgrown or washed out. This is serious backcountry travel, not a groomed walking track.
Middle Branch Road to Cedar Flat Huts
~4 hours | ~9 km
(Click here for a detailed blog on this section)
The walk into Cedar Flat Huts is one of the more popular access tracks in the area and sees regular use. As a result, it is generally well maintained, with windfall often cleared. The car park is located at the end of Middle Branch Road — this is a working farm, so ensure gates are left as found and access ways are not blocked.
Follow the orange markers along the farm track before climbing a short grassy bank through a gate into public conservation land. From here, the historic bench pack track begins. Where intact, this old route once extended all the way to Grassy Flat Hut, but over time it has suffered numerous slips and washouts. Care is required, as some damaged sections involve steep climbs and exposed drop-offs.
After approximately 20 minutes, the track passes a sign indicating a “flood route.” While this can be taken, it is often just as straightforward to remain on the main track, which drops into the Toaroha River valley and sidles along the river. Expect boulder hopping and several side stream crossings — one unnamed side stream in particular can be notable.
Beyond this, the marked track climbs into the bush above the Toaroha Canyon, undulating in and out of steep guts and side streams before eventually levelling out and emerging at Cedar Flat. The hut comes into view shortly after, with a large swingbridge crossing the Toaroha River just before it. This area is prime whio (blue duck) habitat, and they are often seen or heard nearby.
Cedar Flat Huts
Historic Cedar Flat Hut: 2 bunks, open fire, bench, water from main hut or river, long drop
Cedar Flat Hut: 12 bunks, log burner, table and bench seating, cooking bench, tank water, long drop
Cedar Flat Hut to Adventure Biv
~2 hours
Adventure Biv to Top Kokatahi Hut
~5 hours | ~6 km total
From Cedar Flat Hut, the track follows the Toaroha River and can be very muddy, particularly after rain. It winds away from the river before climbing to a bridge high above the Toaroha Gorge, where turquoise water churns below. A steep descent leads to Median Creek, which must be crossed.
A short distance on, a sign points left toward Adventure Biv (with the original 2-hour time crossed out and replaced with 3). The climb begins immediately and is steep, exposed, and physical, often requiring the use of trees, roots, and rocks to haul yourself upward. In places, erosion has left slick rock slabs and exposed drop-offs, with large trees precariously clinging to the hillside.
The terrain does ease briefly in places before reaching the bushline, where the small orange biv appears tucked into tussock and scrub.
Adventure Biv
2 mats (1 platform), small water tank
From Adventure Biv, poles and triangle markers guide the route toward Zit Saddle (although the route actually crosses slightly higher than the saddle itself). Alpine scrub and tussock dominate this section, and the climb is relentlessly steep and overgrown, with little visible ground trail.
The route drops into Zit Creek, where markers are sparse and route-finding can be time-consuming. Once across, the climb resumes — very steep, with near-vertical scrambles over slick boulders to regain the upper tussock slopes. Marker visibility improves here.
From the high point, expansive views stretch west to Hokitika and along the West Coast, and east over the Kokatahi River valley.
The descent from the saddle is initially steep, following poles into a creek draining the saddle. Travel continues in the creek bed, boulder hopping down the true left, with occasional scrubby track sections. Lower down, a tussock clearing signals the approach to Top Kokatahi Hut, which eventually comes into view.
Top Kokatahi Hut
4 bunks, log burner, cooking bench, bench seating, tank water, long drop
Top Kokatahi Hut to Crawford Junction Hut
~6 hours
Crawford Junction Hut to Top Crawford Hut
~4 hours | ~12 km total
From the hut, return to the stream bed and follow the marked track down to the Upper Kokatahi River. A river crossing is required here to continue on the true right — under normal flows this can be mid- to upper-thigh deep.
The track alternates between scrubby terraces and river travel, requiring multiple crossings and extensive boulder hopping. The Upper Kokatahi Swingbridge is reached (note: it is incorrectly marked on some topo maps and lies further downstream). The bridge crosses high above the river, with a technical exit involving a narrow ledge, a fixed chain, and a bolted ladder.
Beyond the bridge, the route continues to alternate between bush and river travel. Several warm hot spring-fed streams enter the river here — not hot enough to soak, but a welcome novelty amid relentless boulder hopping.
The Kokatahi Cableway provides another river crossing before the track briefly re-enters the bush, exits once more to the river, and finally climbs away to Crawford Junction Hut.
Crawford Junction Hut
6 bunks, log burner, table and bench seating, cooking bench, tank water, long drop
A sign near the hut indicates the route to Top Crawford Hut. The track drops into Crawford Stream, requiring boulder hopping before entering bush and crossing Farquharson Stream. A steep, loose shingle climb follows to regain the track, which then climbs high above the gorge on narrow, exposed sections.
Despite steep terrain and exposed drop-offs, this section is generally in reasonable condition. Occasional clearings offer views toward the Browning Range and Southern Alps. The track eventually drops back to Crawford Stream, followed by around 800 metres of boulder hopping to reach the tussock clearing where the hut sits.
Top Crawford Hut
4 bunks, log burner, table and bench seating, cooking bench, water from stream, long drop
Top Crawford Hut to Browning Range Biv
~5.5 hours
Browning Range Biv to Grassy Flat Hut
~2 hours | ~7 km total
From Top Crawford Hut, markers are visible across Crawford Stream at the base of the Browning Range — the start of the route to Lathrop Saddle. The climb from the stream is steep, slow, and overgrown, with markers present but ground trail often nonexistent.
The route ascends through scrub and tussock guts to gain a large alpine basin with views of the Browning Range. Poles are limited, and careful navigation is required across tarn-filled basins before the final climb to Lathrop Saddle.
From the saddle, views once again extend west toward Hokitika and the coastline. The descent leads down a tussock and scrub-covered spur toward Browning Range Biv. This section is steep, intermittently marked, and requires careful route-finding.
Browning Range Biv
2 mats and platforms, bench, small water tank
There is no sign marking the descent toward the Styx River. Care is required to locate the correct track. The descent is steep and slippery, with dracophyllum leaves often covering the ground. Travel continues down an unnamed stream draining Lathrop Saddle before re-entering bush and descending to the Styx River track junction. From here, it is a short walk upriver to Grassy Flat Hut.
Grassy Flat Hut
10 bunks, log burner, table and bench seating, cooking bench, tank water, long drop
Grassy Flat Hut to Road End (via Styx River)
~5 hours (true right – not maintained)
~6–7 hours via Mid Styx Hut (recommended)
From Grassy Flat Hut, the Styx River must be crossed to access the historic Browning Pass pack track, part of the original route linking the West Coast to Canterbury.
The track on the true right of the Styx has suffered extensive damage from severe weather events since 2019 and is no longer maintained by DOC. Large slips and deeply gouged side streams make travel slow and hazardous, often requiring multiple river crossings to bypass damaged sections.
DOC now recommends and maintains the route on the true left via Mid Styx Hut. This involves crossing the Styx River at the signed junction, climbing onto a terrace to reach Mid Styx Hut, then continuing along terraces, through Tyndall Creek, and along bush and tussock benches beside the Styx River. A final river crossing leads to the old 4WD track and car park.
Final Notes
This is a serious West Coast backcountry traverse that demands experience, patience, and determination. Expect slow progress, physical fatigue, and constant decision-making. Those who commit to it will be rewarded not with comfort, but with a raw, immersive journey through some of the wildest terrain New Zealand has to offer.
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